Henri Boutet and his Ladies

Today I bit the bullet and started my Christmas shopping.  With three grown daughters who save their big ticket wants for the holidays in hopes that Santa comes through, my list is short, sweet and un peu cher.  Three grown nieces get gift cards or a check and the tiniest one of all, my 18 month old niece, has my undivided shopping attention.  Pajamas and sparkly outfits with little matching brocade slippers and toys and books--I forgot how much I miss having little ones in my world. When I have grandchildren (girls, seriously I can wait!) watch out. 

Went totally off topic for a moment.  

Henri Boutet.  I just discovered him this afternoon while I was mindlessly searching the web for any one of a number of things that had nothing to do with him but voila, he is now in my consciousness.  Born in 1851, Monsieur Boutet was a skillful lithographer and designer who concentrated his efforts on bringing the "Belle Epoque" woman to life in delicately colored etchings.  Illustrations depicting turn of the century French women moving about in their daily world around the city of Paris becomes a veritable 'defile' of fashion popular in that era. Throughout his works, he captures 'La Parisienne' in all her feminine, coquettish beauty.  The young woman above looks to be taking a stroll in the Esplanade des Invalides with the Eiffel Tower and Grand Palais in the background, knowing exactly how fabulous she is.  Below, a woman braves the elements looking far more elegant than I do in my puffy coat and moon boots. Oh, I wish this was my outfit today.  Alas, 'La Chicago-enne' isn't quite as magnificent in winter. 

He also created a catalog, Les Modes des Femines du XIX Siecle, catalouging fashion from 1801-1900.  

If we were shopping for a special little somthin' somthin' for all our sparkly holiday events in 1815 we might come home with this little number:

A year later, this would be all the rage:

I love them both.  I do believe I am living in the wrong era.  The past is always tugging at me--sure there are things I'd miss from the present. Convenience.  But if I didn't know it ever existed then I guess it just wouldn't matter would it?  Too much of a romantic for my own good.

Additional information:   Georgina Kelman

Photo credit:  nypl.org

Chanel and Moscow

I found this little video clip over the weekend and thought it would be fun to share.  Karl Lagerfeld, designer of all things Chanel, produced this silent film to introduce a pre-fall ready to wear collection that was inspired by all things Russian.  The mini-movie was made in two days at a studio outside of Paris.  Some of the actors you'll see are actual workers from the Chanel atelier.  Curiously entertaining.  

For the entire movie visit Chanel  

Additional information:  Karl Lagerfeld's silent cinema brings Moscow to Paris (iht.com)

Bouquinistes Fall on Hard Times

Les Bouquinistes have been around forever.  History can trace these booksellers who make their home along the banks of the Seine as far back as the mid-1500's.  Ingenious peddlers would bring their wares into the city in a wheel barrel and lay claim to a bit of earth along the river embankments to sell their books (initially forbidden Protestant pamphlets in a staunchly Catholic city).  Later, trays strapped to the stone walls with thin leather belts served as their storefront.   In the 1890's, these sellers were allowed to permanently secure boxes to the walls along the Seine and have remained fixtures in the city of Paris that continue to be popular with residents and tourists alike.  The photo above shows visitors in the 1960's taking in the historical volumes that may have been owned by the clergy or noblemen but were freed up after the Revolution.  Entire libraries became available and were sold cheaply by these vendors.

Each bouquiniste is given four boxes, all the same size paying rent for the stone walls they are attached to--usually about 100 euro a year.  Only one box out of the four is allowed to sell items other than books but I venture to guess that has changed significantly.  Items often times are set up on the sidewalk in front of the boxes, obscuring all the literary gemstones displayed behind.  Currently, there are 250 of these established sellers with an eight year waiting list for the honor of renting the esteemed green boxes.  

Today if you pass by these precursors to our current mega-booksellers (B & N, Borders, Amazon...) you will see the toll modern technology has taken on these age old vendors: tchotkies.  You know, those annoying key chains with Eiffel Towers or magnets in the shape of the Arc de Triomphe.  Little odds and ends that in a mad rush to bring things home for family and friends you will quickly buy and say, "I bought these from the bouquinistes", and it will sound so French.  

Actually, these items are evidence of a bigger problem:  vendors struggling to survive in a world where antique books and etchings can be purchased for less online.  They find themselves having to make ends meet by hawking garish scenic oil paintings or postcards in order to pay their bills.  City hall, alarmed by the fact that these knick-knacks are tarnishing the "cultural landscape" along the Seine have invited the bouquinistes to crisis talks in order to promote more intellectual merchandise.  The booksellers are divided even amongst themselves as many have remained true to their heritage;  filling their stalls with first edition works by Jules Verne, vintage graphics or widely popular comics.  Sellers in the more touristy area of Saint Michel have certainly turned to the tchotkie trade, almost to the exclusion of books.  It does indeed change the tone of this long standing Parisian tradition. 

Time will tell what direction this all will take.  It would be sad to see this part of Paris dissolve into a cheap marketing scheme aimed at tourist's whims for what really isn't French at all. Rather, as a tourist, bring home one of those old manuscripts.  Even if you can't read it, you will own a part of history instead of a statue made in China. 

Photo credit:  byronv2@flickr, Miss Shari@flickr     

Lydia Courteille

I am in love with this graphic--my daughter found this website, sent it my way telling me I was going to love it and she was right.  This woman, Lydia Courteille, creates some of the most amazing and very 'out there' pieces of jewelry.  Her interpretation of frogs in green diamonds clinging to large translucent stones become much less amphibious.  A snake covered in pink diamonds doesn't look quite as evil as they are made out to be. I'd be OK with this one winding its way up my wrist!  Located on rue Saint Honoré, I thought I should share with you both her address and website just in case someone is looking for a little somethin' somethin' for the upcoming holidays. Promise you will check out the cameos!!

Additional information:  Lydia Courteille 

                                             231, rue Saint Honoré

                                             Métro:  Concorde, Tuileries

Mystery, Masks and Music at Musée d'Orsay

Today the letter M is going to work its 'magic' while we make our way through the Musée d'Orsay.  Several exhibits that are happening as we speak are worth a trip to my favorite museum in the city.  Mystery, Masks and Music.  Let's get moving!

Manet's Portrait of Irma Brunner

Mystery and Glitter is the first exhibit we're going to that takes a look into the world of Pastels.  These pigmented powders, shaped into sticks held together by chalky water and a binder go back as far as being mentioned by Leonardo da Vinci in 1495.  In the late 18th century, pastels became popular among portraitists who were able to manipulate this medium allowing them to produce incredible detail, texture and skin tone that mystified and delighted the aristocrats who were being 'pasteled'.   Degas and Manet took this art form to great heights: Degas through his revelation of dancers in unexpected lighting and perspective and Manet in his beautiful portraits.  These works will captivate you leaving you to wonder how one could work with a substance so powdery and create such amazing detail.  The lighting captured by Degas will have you believing the shadows in his works are coming from lighting the museum has created.   

Degas' Dancers

Masks, whether for protection, performance or ceremony, have played a role in revealing mans stories and history forever.  Think tribal masks from Africa or pre-Columbian masks used for Christian rituals. Or perhaps carnival masks in Venice or those worn to masked balls held throughout Paris.  When you think about it, all cultures can be traced to having used some form of masks.  Looked at from that point of view, they are objects which deal with identity--or the temporary loss of it either ritually or spiritually.  

The Musée d'Orsay has brought together a collection spanning the globe to illustrate just how universal this art form is.  Through photography, graphics, bronze castings and stone, the mask is exposed in forms grotesque, decorative and as portraiture.  Indeed, an interesting study on how history has provided man with ways to lose, or perhaps, find him/herself.
Last, but certainly not least, between now and June of 2009, the museum is hosting lunch time concerts, free to the public, that juxtapose one art form in the setting of another. Nineteen different concerts have been planned, bringing in both amateurs and professionals whose repertoires range from Romantic music to French Chansons.  If that isn't something you can make happen, perhaps you can get to the museum this Tuesday evening as the Grand Hall will be the setting for a performance by the Orchestre national de France.  I have not been, but can only imagine how incredible an experience that will be.  So hope you are in Paris right now to take advantage of that!

Additional information:  Musée d'Orsay 

                                            Metro:  Solférino, Assemblée Nationale

                                            Closed Mondays

                                            Pastels in the Musée and Masks, now thru Feb. 1, 2009

Photo credit:  Musée d'Orsay, natalamc@flickr

Ladurée

I know that if you are reading this blog because you love Paris, then you surely have come across information far more in depth to anything I can write about Ladurée here.  And you have probably come across countless blog posts, articles, etc. that allude to the fact a visit to Paris is incomplete without a visit to Ladurée.  I would have to concur.  For me and many others, it is the complete sensorial definition of 'l'Art de Vivre' that the French have mastered so well.  Sight, sound, taste, aroma are woven together in such way that you are carried off to another time and place--one that no longer exists in our everyday world.  The company has masterfully created a sense of wanting to 'be' Ladurée.  

Recently, in celebration of their ten year anniversary of their location on the Champs Elysée, Ladurée ventured into the future with the addition of Ladurée Le Bar, a completely different way to experience the world of petite fours and macarons.  Located behind the salon de thé,  Laudurée Le Bar looks more like a lounge you might find on Starship Enterprise:  weblike barstools and an illuminated ship shaped bar feel more space age than belle époque.  If you're going to do something that feels entirely different from what already exists, this would be it.  

What does remain the same is their connection to the macaron flavors they've created for their patisseries.  Drinks like Pistache (my flavor choice), a melange of Grey Goose pear vodka, ginger liqueur and pistachio syrup is served up with a pale green pistachio macaron on the side.  Perfect.  Rose, Citron, Café and Cassis/Violette get the nod as well.  You can order non-alchohalic drinks, including their Thés Ladurée, all delicious.   

There is a menu available as well, serving breakfast and interesting light meals throughout the day.  Inventive and elegant would be a way  to describe them--read:  it will not be cheap but it will be memorable.  Whether it's the salon du thé that pulls you in or Le Bar, Ladurée, one way or the other is not to be missed. 

Additional information:  Ladurée

                                            Ladurée Le Bar

                                            75 avenue de Champs Élysée or 13 rue Lincoln 

                                            Métro:  George V

Photo credit:  Ladurée, L'Express Styles

Champs Élysées Gets Ready For Christmas

Ingres: Neo-Classical Genius

All this eating, drinking and shopping we've been doing has got to stop for a moment so we can get down to the nitty gritty of why one comes to Paris.  There are millions of reasons I know, but let's start with one of the more obvious-- art at its finest.  With that as our goal, the letter I is going to take us into the world of one of my favorite artists, Jean Auguste Ingres.

Jean Auguste Ingres was a student of the neo-classical school, having been taught by Jaques Louis David (another favorite of mine).  His biography is long and eventful and I don't need to go into great detail here as to all the awards he won and places he studied.  I just want to post some of his works that I find fascinating and each time I stand before them, some new element regarding his work is revealed. 

His portraits done for wealthy clients during his early years have been both revered and criticized.  His work has been called too stylized, while others feel his representation of women and fashion and the wearing of that fashion allows us to 'situate ourselves' within the painting. One is able to feel the weight of the fabric or hear the sound satin makes while rustling against legs trying to maneuver underneath it all.  He hated seeing obvious brush marks and that absolute precision, sometimes to a fault, comes through in his works.  Skin is milky and luminescent--it's tinge of blue hinting at life that lies just below.  The fabric's folds are meticulous and crisp, creating a sense of weight and volume.  I never tire standing in front of these works and breathing my own life into them.

His career covers numerous styles, including religious works (not my favorite) and at a very low point when work was not to be found, he took to doing pencil sketches of tourists making their way through Rome where he was living at the time.  With the skill he possessed, he felt this work unworthy of his talent, yet these sketches numbering over 400 are some of his most admired.  

Then of course, there is the La Grande Odalisque, which I present to you not one, not two, but three ways.  The top is the original which can be found at the Louvre.  It was painted for Napoleon's sister Caroline Murat of Naples for which he was never paid.  It shows an odalisque or concubine, reclining on sumptuous fabric surrounded by Turkish inspired accouterments.  I can't say why exactly I am so drawn to it but every time I visit the Louvre I pay homage to this painting while the rest of the world visits 'La Joconde'.  The middle is a pencil sketch that Ingres created as inspiration and finally there is the work in Grisaille that you can find at the Metropolitan Museum in New York which is attributed to assistants of his. Not knowing of its existence, when I entered the room it was displayed in, it just took my breath away.  The minute I saw it, there was that pull again. It's so strong that I had to use it as the mast head for my blog.  It's weird so I just go with it. 

Sending you off in other directions if any of this is of any interest to you.  Certainly if you are making your way to Paris, you are going to run into Monsieur Ingres at some point so I thought you two should be introduced.  

Additional information:  Ingres@amazon.com, artchive, ingresweb

Photo credit:  wikipedia, ingresweb, metmuseum

Hidden Kitchen

We are off to do some more eating, but what you are going to experience is like nothing else you might encounter in Paris.  It use to be under the radar in terms of things to do and places to go when you are here but with its charming hosts and creative menus offering great cuisine, paired with equally great wine, it wasn't going to stay on the QT for long.  Come join me as we make our way to Hidden Kitchen.

Talk about living the dream, Braden and Laura, the brains and brawn behind this Hidden Kitchen, decided in 2007 to make the big leap of faith and head across the ocean from their safe haven in Seattle to experience life in Paris.  A dream destination for both of them, it was a now or never decision.   Originally looked at as a sabbatical before grad school or settling into careers, they packed their bags and hit the road.  Realizing that with no school or jobs as social outlets, meeting people and making new friends was going to be tricky.  With Brandon's previous restaurant experience they decided to create weekly tasting menus, inviting 12 people over to their spacious pied-a-terre for great food and conversation.  Word spread quickly about this new 'underground' restaurant and as the saying goes, the rest in history.  Now with three weekend seatings in their dining room that are sold out in no time, I do believe grad school will have to be put on hold for these two.  
My reservation for a Sunday last February was the last one available and with good reason. Their seven course tasting menus, influenced by seasonal organic ingredients found locally are interpreted into sublime American cuisine with twists of French technique.  Items that you might find in front of you are seared scallops with chorizo and black bean hash, tri-color beans with deep fried cauliflower and spicy buttermilk dressing or butternut squash bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce.  Nothing short of amazing.  A well chosen organic wine is paired with each course, enhancing the meal and evening.  

The winds of fate put you at a table with others like you who enjoy good food and are looking for an out of the ordinary way to experience Paris.  On the particular evening that I attended,  I found myself with a lifelong Parisian, an architect from Boston who just completed a week long mosaic class in Venice, an American ex-patriot about to publish her 'chick-lit' novel of finding love in Paris, a surgeon from Los Angeles and an Irishman and his Swedish wife from London. Quite the diverse group and what an evening we had, one I would love to experience over and over again.  No one was in a hurry to leave after the final petite four was eaten, perhaps much to the chagrin of a very tired host and hostess--you know, the things that wouldn't leave.  Just  think, Brandon and Laura get to enjoy evenings like that every weekend.  What luck!!

Additional information:  hkmenus.com

Photo credits:  hkmenus.com

Deyrolle

No, this is not a scene from one of the larger than life dreams that has me in cavernous rooms which defy all sense of space, filled with disconnected elements that are really metaphors into my weird and confused psyche.  Actually, this scenario is tame, fun and fantasy like compared to places I visit at night.  Usually, there is no translation available to me on dreammoods.com when I wake up and I am left wondering, 'What the heck was that?'.   The places I go require a bit more information I'm afraid.  Maybe drugs.
Anyway, in honor of the letter D, we are headed to the rue du Bac in the 6th arrondisement and a visit to Deyrolle.

Somewhat hard to pin down, Deyrolle can best be described as a curio cabinet full beasts large and small that have been carefully and exquisitely (if indeed, that is a word one could use in this case) preserved through the process of taxidermy and have been put on display in a beautiful 19th hôtel particulier.  It is odd to see these incredible animals found in the wild, quite at home surrounded by backdrop of gold ormolu, softly colored walls and chevron patterned hardwood floors. But I do believe that is exactly what makes a visit here special--it becomes other worldly. (Since I enjoy things like that, that might explain my dreams!) In addition to elephants and tigers or smaller, safer creatures like butterflies and birds--anyone holding a ticket to a berth on Noah's Ark is here as well.
In February of 2008, this beautiful menagerie suffered a fire that thankfully did not destroy as much as originally thought and brought to light just how revered this most curious of establishments is amongst Parisians.  The owner, Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie, who first visited Deyrolle when he was five and bought it in 2001, has painstakingly nursed it back to its original, if not better self.   Founded in 1831, its contents remain, for the most part, in much the same state as one would imagine back then.  Fossils, geodes, bugs and stuffed animals really don't change all that much.  His commitment to making this shop a Parisian 'phoenix' was successful and the doors are once again open to the public.    

Aside from the lingering 'eau de biology lab' scent that wafts through the air, this is really a most interesting place to visit.  If you are in Paris with kids who have had absolutely enough of Renaissance art or haute couture,  bring them here for an an hour or so to even out the score. There's a gift shop on the first floor that those of you a bit squeamish about having to come face to face with stuffed snakes can spend some time in.   

Additional information:  Deyrolle

                                              46 rue du Bac

                                              Métro: Rue du Bac

Photo credit:  Deyrolle

  

Arrondissements: The Lay of the Land

I thought we could make our way through the alphabet of Paris (an easy way to for me to come up with posts) taking a cue from the letter of the day and seeing where it might lead.  With that in mind,  I could not help but start us off with the lay of the land.  This way, if one of you should go astray--letting go of your buddy's hand, which you know you should never do,  you will at least have some idea of where you might be and how to get home!!

The letter A today is all about arrondissements or roughly translated, 'municipal boroughs'. The city of Paris is divided into twenty of these little villages, each with their own town hall (hôtel de ville) and mayor.  Mini-municipalities you might say.  Distinctly different in every possible way, they provide both resident and tourist with a unique and diverse interpretation of how life should be lived. 

These arrondissements spiral out from the very center of the the city, curling around itself similar to the inside of shell, with the Seine dividing the city into the Right and Left banks.   As a tourist, your visit will most likely be confined to the inner most arrondissements--say one through nine. It is here that the majority of monuments, museums and history can be found.   That's not to say, however,  that what lies beyond this point isn't worth a visit.  In recent years,  with real estate prices skyrocketing,  Parisians have made the trek into new territory, specifically the outer spiral of the shell,  where once decaying neighborhoods and buildings are being rejuvenated into pockets of boho chic.  

In my books, the third thru six offer the most fun and adventure for those not familiar with the city.  It is in this area that you will find all that you have read about in tour guides while planning a trip.  Expect much of it to be crowded, crazy, full of traffic and noisy.  Certainly, you will feel as though you are right in the thick of things--probably exactly where you want to be. You can walk everywhere or hop on the metro and cover more ground than you probably thought possible.  This city, for all its grandeur and larger than life status is really quite small.  To cover it by foot isn't as crazy as you think. 

I have found some interactive maps of the city that allow you to click on the arrondisement and be taken on a journey of what monuments you will find there and a little about each section's distinct personality.  There is no excuse for any of you getting lost!!

Additional information:  Discover France, Go Europe, Paris by Numbers

Photo credit:  intransit.com

 

My Genie In Paris

Planning a trip to Paris?  There are a million ways to go about the task of getting oneself there and then figuring out what one needs to do and see.  The fact that every single street offers some new and interesting shop or restaurant doesn't help.  It can be overwhelming and disappointing often times if you don't have a least some idea of where to go.  A friend of mine has taken it upon himself to make sure that vacation disasters to the City of Lights can be avoided.  

My Genie in Paris, a company started by a young and very personable French entrepreneur, takes all the guesswork out of planning your trip to Paris.  From start to finish, Stephane and his staff can guide you to hotels and apartment rentals that fit all budgets and will put together an itinerary for individuals, groups or families based on where your interests lie.  A preliminary online survey will get the ball rolling and on arrival in Paris, a concierge will meet you at your hotel with all the information and tickets you might need.  In addition, this team of experts knows the city inside and out and can give you personalized tips from where the best breakfast in Paris is (you've got to try it) to nightlife that tourists would easily miss out on.  

They have taken great pains to gather together some of the most interesting "off the beaten" track activities which you can take advantage of.  Spend a morning learning the ins and outs of a true Parisian boulangerie followed by an afternoon creating your very own perfume.  That's just the beginning of what's available to you.  This team of born and bred Parisians left no stone unturned  searching for the best experience possible while visiting Paris. 

Taking all the guesswork and stress out of planning a trip, My Genie in Paris is really the way to go for a unique and successful visit to the City of Lights.

Additional information:  My Genie In Paris  

Photo credit:  ancama 99(toni)@flickr

Gertrude Stein Gets It

I have had an ongoing fascination with Gertrude Stein for awhile.  Her influence on modern art and literature cannot be ignored, promoting Picasso and Matisse in the 1920's, showcasing their work in her 'salon' at 27 rue du Fleurus in Paris or coaxing genius out of  Thorton Wilder and Earnest Hemingway in the 30's through her thoughts on language.  I have read many of her works and much that has been written about her but only recently have come to understand her true impact.  

Paris, France, is a slim volume, published in 1940, which gets down to the nitty gritty of being "French".  She observes her adopted countrymen and breaks them down to their bare essentials, accurately revealing what makes them tick.  For example, her observation on French men:  

In France a boy is a man of his age the age he is and so there is no question of a boy growing up to be a man and what is the use, because at every stage of being alive he is completely a  man alive at that time.

This then leads to a Frenchman's relationship with his mother and while my personal experience is limited, I observed enough in my year in Paris to know that she is spot on.  Not only with this concept but all that she touches on.  It is the only book I have read that I actually took a highlighter to so I could go back and review. 

You are probably thinking, did Kim get that quote right?  It feels as though some words or punctuation marks are missing.  No, I didn't get the quote wrong and yes, you would be right.  Her style of writing is jarring and at times takes a few re-reads which is why I also have to recommend a second book, Proust Was a Neuroscientist.   Johan Lehrer takes a fascinating look at artists, musicians and writers who challenged the obvious and took their work in another direction, all being criticized at the time yet eventually being recognized as genius' in their field.  It is here that I learned about Ms Stein's attempt to truly understand language. Taking it to its most basic form is what makes it so jarring for us as readers as it is unexpected. Our brains aren't used to seeing words put together in such a way and processing their meaning takes additional work on our part.  All the artists in this book attempted to change the hardwiring of the observers brain.   Mr. Lehrer does a great job of subtly teaching the complexities of neuroscience and how these individuals opened up a whole new way of looking at things that today we take for granted.   

OK--so those are my highbrow thoughts for the day.  They, highbrow thoughts, are few and far between for me so I share them when I can.  

Journey from the Past: The Orient-Express

When I think of the Orient Express, I think of traveling by train in the ultimate lap of luxury--wood paneled cocoons of soft lighting offering gourmet meals in the dining car or comfort that even home might not provide in the drawing rooms.  I also think of murder and intrigue as the journey makes its way through mountainous terrain, the train's interior thrown into darkness as it passes through pitch black tunnels only to emerge with a who done it scenario on one's hands.  The fabled 'Murder on the Orient Express' took place on the long distance passenger train known for travel between Paris and Istanbul, with multiple stops along the way depending on what era you're talking about.  

In 1872, Belgian entrepreneur, Georges Nagelmackers, created Compagnie Internationale des Wagon-Lits, catering to sleeping car services throughout Europe.  His inspiration came about after traveling across the United States on Pullman night trains.  His vision was to create a similar style of travel across boarders in Europe, infusing those journeys with high end luxury. The premier journey started at Gare de l'Est in Paris on October 4, 1883.  A complicated route which included two separate train rides and a 14 hour ferry ride, dropped passengers off at their final destination, Istanbul.  In 1889, the train route from Paris to Constantinople was complete, offering twice weekly departures with a total travel time of 67 hours.  Wow!  I get ancy on an 8 hour flight to Europe!!  Somehow, I don't think economy class on any airline is going to compare to what I might have found back then.   

In July, 1914, the Orient Express service was suspended due to war.  In 1919 it started up again and with numerous stops, starts and new routes, it continued service to Istanbul until 1977.  A shorter version between Paris and Vienna ran until 2007.  With the advent of the TGV in France, their fabulous high speed train, the Orient Express is all but lost to a shortened trip between Strasbourg and Vienna.  

You are in luck however if this romantic type of travel appeals to you.  Venice-Simplon-Orient Express is a company that caters to train travel with luxury that I am sure wasn't available in the train's heyday.  Offering packages that take you to a combination of the most fantastic cities in Europe, you can savour the "travel" as well as the destination.  

Beware!  This type of travel does not come cheap!  An eight day excursion between Paris and Vienna that leaves on October 15th (I believe that is this Wednesday) goes for $24,750/per person.  Hmm.  I am speechless which hardly ever happens to me!!  Perhaps if you're lucky, there still might be room.  

Additional Information:  Venice Simplon-Orient-Express,

                                              The Orient Express

                                              Good Magazine: Wanderlust

Photo credit:  Wkipedia, Amazon, Venice Simplon-Orient-Express

Paris Fix

A little something to get our fix of Paris for the day.  This video gets it so right.  

Cire Trudon

In my constant quest to fill my life with all fun things French, I came upon the most fantastic scented candles with a history older than me which I needed to share.

With beginnings that can be traced back to 1643, Cire Trudon has been the illuminator in French history ever since.  Makers of the highest quality candles, the company "kept the lights on" so to speak at the court of Versailles starting in 1687 and Maison Trudon was named the royal wax manufacturer in 1719, supplying Napoleon et al their candles during his reign.  With bloodlines like this, you know these must be something special.  

In 2007,  renegade Parisian designer, Ramdane Touhami, was asked to create new scents in a marketing move that would "reintroduce" Cire Trudon to the world of home fragrance.  Taking images from France's past, he developed 12 fragrances that transport one back to a moment in France's history and brings it back to life.  

 

Yesterday, I took it upon myself to do a little nosing around and ended up at Barneys here in Chicago where they sell them.   The display was simple, yet elegant.  Beautifully crafted bell jars covered each candle as one must inhale the scent trapped in the jar, not the candle.  My daughter and I went through all of them-some of the more curious scents being Carmalite: "the scent of old stone walls in the shade of cloisters and convents",  Revolution: "a liberal urge moved by a childish appetite or Trianon: evoking, "the country like dreams of Marie Antoinette".  My personal favorite was Abd el Kader:  "a wind of freedom coming all at once from the Mascara coast".  Beautiful usage of words that really tells you nothing at all but does conjure up the idea of what you will experience I suppose.  Their website will tell you what you are really smelling.  

All this history does not come cheap.  Each candle retails for $75, apparently they burn forever and evenly which is why they need to cost so much.  There was some sticker shock on my part and I chose not to buy one.  Imagine that.  Barneys is just down the street and I can get my fix from the bell jar any time I want.

Photo credit:  Cire Trudon 

Sunset, Sunrise

I had to choose this photo for today as it represents everything going on for me.  Is it a sunrise or a sunset?  I have both going on in my personal life right now and need to embrace them.  They both are equally beautiful and satisfying in my books.

As I went along writing this blog, I also wrote for The Paris Traveler, a blog owned by an online media company out of Canada.  It is that "job" if you will that got me started in this whole blogging business and the opportunity to write daily about a place I love more than anything was too good to pass up.  Six short months later, the blog has been retired.  That part of my daily life has been put to rest along with so many other things.  

I have decided to take this blog in the direction that gives me the most pleasure--Paris.  The title already speaks to this  most magical place and it allows me to reveal not only the places that one should see while visiting, but here I can uncover and share with you all the things that couldn't be posted on a blog that didn't allow for much creative process.  Paris et cie, since it is my personal blog, gives me that freedom and I can take readers as far as my imagination wants to go.  Readership will certainly slow down as I have no big advertising banners at the top of the page, but the content will be much more fun.  

So, I am settled in my new digs, the sun is out and it could not be a more beautiful day in Chicago.  Oak Street beach which I can see from my front window is calling me to walk along it in order to get my day going and I think I have to listen.  I can't tell you how anxious I am to get things moving along.  Hope you continue to join me on this adventure.  

Photo credit:  kodakgold@sxc.hu

Paris: Rue de Fuerstenberg

I found this curious antique shop as I was winding my way through the Saint Germain area of Paris on a rainy evening in February.  I remember talking on the phone, taking care of some dilemma back home in the states while struggling to take pictures of this haunting site, soothe the weary heart of one of my daughters and rush to get out of the coming rain storm.  Having dusk descending over Paris made this place all the more haunting for me.  

I love this little display of artist's models amongst some crazy antique village scene.

 

This is my favorite image as all the elements together create a scene of a dream that you either want to stay in longer or escape from as fast as you can.  Personally,  I delight in scenes like this.

I was unable to remember the name of the shop but you can find it at 4 rue de Furstenberg, on odd street for Paris as it has a round about in the center of it.  The area is well hidden which added to the mystery of the treasures found here. 

Photo credit:  Personal collection  

Moroccan Mint Tea: Drink of the Gods

I spent a year living in Paris which could be a million posts long going over the delights of that experience.  Most I am sure will be revealed as I write.  Today I will share what I discovered to be one of the most exquisite drinks I had there:  Moroccan Mint Tea.  

I am reminded of this liquid pleasure as I look at my garden, completely taken over by a wildly invasive strain of mint that is making me insane.   It has taken on the likeness of  that mythological creature, the many headed Hydra who just kept growing more heads as Hercules tried to get rid of them.  Instead of fighting my minty nightmare, I have decided to embrace this herbal blessing and am on a constant quest for recipes requiring it.  It is garnishing everything I make--dressings, dips, desserts and.....tea.  

I have been very fortunate to come across a blog that I "read" daily even though it is in Italian and I don't know a word of Italian.  Cucinare Lontano is a cooking/lifestyle blog I think, written by Jean-Michel who is French, lives in Florence and speaks perfect English. (that is all good in my books!) I leave little comments for his posts when I can and he answers back in English.  It is his recipe for Mint Tea that I am sharing with you.  If you go to his site, you will understand why he knows what he talks about.  

2 tablespoons green chinese tea

10-15 leaves of fresh mint

5 spoonfuls of sugar
Pour 1 liter boiling water into teapot and let steep for 5 minutes.  Pour into small decorated Arab glasses.  You can put a few pine nuts in the glass--they will swell and soften in the hot water and become quite fragrant.  

Here are some little goodies from Just Morocco to make the experience even more authentic. 

A Hyatt teapot

Beautiful golden tea glasses to drink this ambrosia from!

If you aren't as lucky as I to have a huge crop of mint taking over your backyard there's always Mighty Leaf.

Photo credits: Mighty Leaf Tea, Just Morocco, flickr: Dragos z