So far in our discovery of Paris we have been eating and drinking, both of which are good things (more of that to come). We know the lay of the land a bit and we smell good. What else.....oh, I know, shopping. Yes, people, no trip to Paris would be complete without at least a bit of aching arms as a result of being loaded down with shopping bags. Therefore, the letter
G is going to lead the way and drop us off at
Galeries Lafayette. (Thank you letter G).
The Grand Dame of Parisian department stores,
Galeries Lafayette opened it's doors on Boulevard Haussmann in 1896. Under a magnificent Belle Époque stained glass ceiling covering a seven story atrium, this flagship store is the largest department store in Europe. A visit here requires a good chunk of your day and may take an even bigger chunk out of your wallet.
Having witnessed some lean times, the entire store has been brilliantly re-outfitted to cater to every shopping need and then some that you could possibly have. Divided into boutique-like areas, it features cosmetics and fragrances too numerous to mention, handbags and shoe departments that you just have to shake your head in disbelief and wonder 'How am I ever going to be able to make a choice'? Surrounding all this are haute couture boutiques, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, etc. to add to the confusion. Oh, did I mention we are still on the first floor?
As you wind your way up, you will come in contact with some of the most beautiful cloths imaginable--the type that most of don't really have an opportunity to purchase on our runs to Target here in the states. Luckily haute couture and the everyday knockabout kind of clothes peacefully coexist here so you are bound to find a little something for everyone. And while it can be exhausting and require more time than you might think, not to worry. They have ingeniously thought out every detail and there are several restaurants and even a champagne bar (I never wanted to leave once I saw that) which allow you to recharge your battery and keep on shopping.
But wait!! There's more. If you go through the men's department (you are now in a totally different building and either have to walk outside to get there or through a glass walkway connecting the two) you will find the best reason to go to Galeries Lafayette. Lafayette Gourmet is a full gourmet grocery store where you can find just about anything from the simple to the sublime. Not only can you get the goods to take home and prepare a great meal, with numerous food stations/mini-restaurants right there, you can treat yourself to some of the yummiest food in Paris and I say that in all seriousness. The photo above is just one of those food bars that features Spanish Iberico ham that is out of this world and you cannot come by the real thing here in the states due to how it is processed (an FDA thing). A seat at this counter is one of the most coveted of places to have lunch. It took my daughters and I almost a year of trying to find three seats together to partake in a little food heaven. But when we did, oh my! Seriously, as crazy as it sounds, every time we are in Paris we make our way here for a great meal.
OK--how's the arms? Have you had enough? It is overwhelming and if there is anyone who doesn't like to shop traveling with you, I just wouldn't bring them along. Send them in a direction they will enjoy so you can do your thing. Just make sure the right one ends up with the credit card!!
40, blvd Haussmann
Métro: Chaussée-d'Antin-LaFayette, Opera
Ah, the day after Turkey Day. Weighted down by insane portions of stuffing and corn casserole and bread pudding and apple squares and pumpkin pie....all so wonderful in the moment. Yet, this morning, my body was a bit angry with me for participating in this yearly food marathon. I didn't want to offend the hostess, my sister, who worked so hard on the meal. So, eat we all did. 
I started blogging very serendipitously, not having a clue what I was doing, yet hopeful that I would figure it out (the art of blogging) and through writing figure some things out for myself. The blogging part is simple really once you get going--the rest....well, time will tell. I would have to say that no matter what we attempt to do or create in our lives we walk away having been exposed to many unexpected things, both good and bad. For instance, no one ever told me when I started blogging that I would 'meet' so many wonderful people throughout the world who have entered my life and feel like they have been my friends forever. Many times, I have been touched by their kindness and concern when things weren't going so well and felt their joy in my celebrations in life's happy moments. What a blessing all this has been for me. 
I am in love with this graphic--my daughter found this website, sent it my way telling me I was going to love it and she was right. This woman, Lydia Courteille, creates some of the most amazing and very 'out there' pieces of jewelry. Her interpretation of frogs in green diamonds clinging to large translucent stones become much less amphibious. A snake covered in pink diamonds doesn't look quite as evil as they are made out to be. I'd be OK with this one winding its way up my wrist! Located on rue Saint Honoré, I thought I should share with you both her address and website just in case someone is looking for a little somethin' somethin' for the upcoming holidays. Promise you will check out the cameos!!
Last, but certainly not least, between now and June of 2009, the museum is hosting lunch time concerts, free to the public, that juxtapose one art form in the setting of another. Nineteen different concerts have been planned, bringing in both amateurs and professionals whose repertoires range from Romantic music to French Chansons. If that isn't something you can make happen, perhaps you can get to the museum this Tuesday evening as the Grand Hall will be the setting for a performance by the Orchestre national de France. I have not been, but can only imagine how incredible an experience that will be. So hope you are in Paris right now to take advantage of that!
Fast food does exist in Paris; they love their 'McDo' but hate to admit it. And you'll see people taking their lunch break in the Tuileries or Luxembourg Gardens eating emporter (to go) sandwiches. The French version of fast food is a far cry from McDonald's--it's actually very good. If you are on the run, what with all the things one must do here in a short period of time, I suggest you head to any one of Eric Kayser boulangeries sprinkled about the city for yumminess that gets you in and out in a hurry. 
All this eating, drinking and shopping we've been doing has got to stop for a moment so we can get down to the nitty gritty of why one comes to Paris. There are millions of reasons I know, but let's start with one of the more obvious-- art at its finest. With that as our goal, the letter I is going to take us into the world of one of my favorite artists, Jean Auguste Ingres.
His portraits done for wealthy clients during his early years have been both revered and criticized. His work has been called too stylized, while others feel his representation of women and fashion and the wearing of that fashion allows us to 'situate ourselves' within the painting. One is able to feel the weight of the fabric or hear the sound satin makes while rustling against legs trying to maneuver underneath it all. He hated seeing obvious brush marks and that absolute precision, sometimes to a fault, comes through in his works. Skin is milky and luminescent--it's tinge of blue hinting at life that lies just below. The fabric's folds are meticulous and crisp, creating a sense of weight and volume. I never tire standing in front of these works and breathing my own life into them.
We are off to do some more eating, but what you are going to experience is like nothing else you might encounter in Paris. It use to be under the radar in terms of things to do and places to go when you are here but with its charming hosts and creative menus offering great cuisine, paired with equally great wine, it wasn't going to stay on the QT for long. Come join me as we make our way to Hidden Kitchen.
My reservation for a Sunday last February was the last one available and with good reason. Their seven course tasting menus, influenced by seasonal organic ingredients found locally are interpreted into sublime American cuisine with twists of French technique. Items that you might find in front of you are seared scallops with chorizo and black bean hash, tri-color beans with deep fried cauliflower and spicy buttermilk dressing or butternut squash bread pudding with bourbon caramel sauce. Nothing short of amazing. A well chosen organic wine is paired with each course, enhancing the meal and evening. 
So far in our discovery of Paris we have been eating and drinking, both of which are good things (more of that to come). We know the lay of the land a bit and we smell good. What else.....oh, I know, shopping. Yes, people, no trip to Paris would be complete without at least a bit of aching arms as a result of being loaded down with shopping bags. Therefore, the letter G is going to lead the way and drop us off at Galeries Lafayette. (Thank you letter G).
Since I could go one of two ways with the name Fragonard, we are going to have to revisit it at a later date in order to cover both important topics: the artist and the topic for today, the perfumery.
