Deyrolle

No, this is not a scene from one of the larger than life dreams that has me in cavernous rooms which defy all sense of space, filled with disconnected elements that are really metaphors into my weird and confused psyche.  Actually, this scenario is tame, fun and fantasy like compared to places I visit at night.  Usually, there is no translation available to me on dreammoods.com when I wake up and I am left wondering, 'What the heck was that?'.   The places I go require a bit more information I'm afraid.  Maybe drugs.
Anyway, in honor of the letter D, we are headed to the rue du Bac in the 6th arrondisement and a visit to Deyrolle.

Somewhat hard to pin down, Deyrolle can best be described as a curio cabinet full beasts large and small that have been carefully and exquisitely (if indeed, that is a word one could use in this case) preserved through the process of taxidermy and have been put on display in a beautiful 19th hôtel particulier.  It is odd to see these incredible animals found in the wild, quite at home surrounded by backdrop of gold ormolu, softly colored walls and chevron patterned hardwood floors. But I do believe that is exactly what makes a visit here special--it becomes other worldly. (Since I enjoy things like that, that might explain my dreams!) In addition to elephants and tigers or smaller, safer creatures like butterflies and birds--anyone holding a ticket to a berth on Noah's Ark is here as well.
In February of 2008, this beautiful menagerie suffered a fire that thankfully did not destroy as much as originally thought and brought to light just how revered this most curious of establishments is amongst Parisians.  The owner, Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie, who first visited Deyrolle when he was five and bought it in 2001, has painstakingly nursed it back to its original, if not better self.   Founded in 1831, its contents remain, for the most part, in much the same state as one would imagine back then.  Fossils, geodes, bugs and stuffed animals really don't change all that much.  His commitment to making this shop a Parisian 'phoenix' was successful and the doors are once again open to the public.    

Aside from the lingering 'eau de biology lab' scent that wafts through the air, this is really a most interesting place to visit.  If you are in Paris with kids who have had absolutely enough of Renaissance art or haute couture,  bring them here for an an hour or so to even out the score. There's a gift shop on the first floor that those of you a bit squeamish about having to come face to face with stuffed snakes can spend some time in.   

Additional information:  Deyrolle

                                              46 rue du Bac

                                              Métro: Rue du Bac

Photo credit:  Deyrolle

  

Arrondissements: The Lay of the Land

I thought we could make our way through the alphabet of Paris (an easy way to for me to come up with posts) taking a cue from the letter of the day and seeing where it might lead.  With that in mind,  I could not help but start us off with the lay of the land.  This way, if one of you should go astray--letting go of your buddy's hand, which you know you should never do,  you will at least have some idea of where you might be and how to get home!!

The letter A today is all about arrondissements or roughly translated, 'municipal boroughs'. The city of Paris is divided into twenty of these little villages, each with their own town hall (hôtel de ville) and mayor.  Mini-municipalities you might say.  Distinctly different in every possible way, they provide both resident and tourist with a unique and diverse interpretation of how life should be lived. 

These arrondissements spiral out from the very center of the the city, curling around itself similar to the inside of shell, with the Seine dividing the city into the Right and Left banks.   As a tourist, your visit will most likely be confined to the inner most arrondissements--say one through nine. It is here that the majority of monuments, museums and history can be found.   That's not to say, however,  that what lies beyond this point isn't worth a visit.  In recent years,  with real estate prices skyrocketing,  Parisians have made the trek into new territory, specifically the outer spiral of the shell,  where once decaying neighborhoods and buildings are being rejuvenated into pockets of boho chic.  

In my books, the third thru six offer the most fun and adventure for those not familiar with the city.  It is in this area that you will find all that you have read about in tour guides while planning a trip.  Expect much of it to be crowded, crazy, full of traffic and noisy.  Certainly, you will feel as though you are right in the thick of things--probably exactly where you want to be. You can walk everywhere or hop on the metro and cover more ground than you probably thought possible.  This city, for all its grandeur and larger than life status is really quite small.  To cover it by foot isn't as crazy as you think. 

I have found some interactive maps of the city that allow you to click on the arrondisement and be taken on a journey of what monuments you will find there and a little about each section's distinct personality.  There is no excuse for any of you getting lost!!

Additional information:  Discover France, Go Europe, Paris by Numbers

Photo credit:  intransit.com

 

My Genie In Paris

Planning a trip to Paris?  There are a million ways to go about the task of getting oneself there and then figuring out what one needs to do and see.  The fact that every single street offers some new and interesting shop or restaurant doesn't help.  It can be overwhelming and disappointing often times if you don't have a least some idea of where to go.  A friend of mine has taken it upon himself to make sure that vacation disasters to the City of Lights can be avoided.  

My Genie in Paris, a company started by a young and very personable French entrepreneur, takes all the guesswork out of planning your trip to Paris.  From start to finish, Stephane and his staff can guide you to hotels and apartment rentals that fit all budgets and will put together an itinerary for individuals, groups or families based on where your interests lie.  A preliminary online survey will get the ball rolling and on arrival in Paris, a concierge will meet you at your hotel with all the information and tickets you might need.  In addition, this team of experts knows the city inside and out and can give you personalized tips from where the best breakfast in Paris is (you've got to try it) to nightlife that tourists would easily miss out on.  

They have taken great pains to gather together some of the most interesting "off the beaten" track activities which you can take advantage of.  Spend a morning learning the ins and outs of a true Parisian boulangerie followed by an afternoon creating your very own perfume.  That's just the beginning of what's available to you.  This team of born and bred Parisians left no stone unturned  searching for the best experience possible while visiting Paris. 

Taking all the guesswork and stress out of planning a trip, My Genie in Paris is really the way to go for a unique and successful visit to the City of Lights.

Additional information:  My Genie In Paris  

Photo credit:  ancama 99(toni)@flickr

Cire Trudon

In my constant quest to fill my life with all fun things French, I came upon the most fantastic scented candles with a history older than me which I needed to share.

With beginnings that can be traced back to 1643, Cire Trudon has been the illuminator in French history ever since.  Makers of the highest quality candles, the company "kept the lights on" so to speak at the court of Versailles starting in 1687 and Maison Trudon was named the royal wax manufacturer in 1719, supplying Napoleon et al their candles during his reign.  With bloodlines like this, you know these must be something special.  

In 2007,  renegade Parisian designer, Ramdane Touhami, was asked to create new scents in a marketing move that would "reintroduce" Cire Trudon to the world of home fragrance.  Taking images from France's past, he developed 12 fragrances that transport one back to a moment in France's history and brings it back to life.  

 

Yesterday, I took it upon myself to do a little nosing around and ended up at Barneys here in Chicago where they sell them.   The display was simple, yet elegant.  Beautifully crafted bell jars covered each candle as one must inhale the scent trapped in the jar, not the candle.  My daughter and I went through all of them-some of the more curious scents being Carmalite: "the scent of old stone walls in the shade of cloisters and convents",  Revolution: "a liberal urge moved by a childish appetite or Trianon: evoking, "the country like dreams of Marie Antoinette".  My personal favorite was Abd el Kader:  "a wind of freedom coming all at once from the Mascara coast".  Beautiful usage of words that really tells you nothing at all but does conjure up the idea of what you will experience I suppose.  Their website will tell you what you are really smelling.  

All this history does not come cheap.  Each candle retails for $75, apparently they burn forever and evenly which is why they need to cost so much.  There was some sticker shock on my part and I chose not to buy one.  Imagine that.  Barneys is just down the street and I can get my fix from the bell jar any time I want.

Photo credit:  Cire Trudon