Deyrolle

No, this is not a scene from one of the larger than life dreams that has me in cavernous rooms which defy all sense of space, filled with disconnected elements that are really metaphors into my weird and confused psyche.  Actually, this scenario is tame, fun and fantasy like compared to places I visit at night.  Usually, there is no translation available to me on dreammoods.com when I wake up and I am left wondering, 'What the heck was that?'.   The places I go require a bit more information I'm afraid.  Maybe drugs.
Anyway, in honor of the letter D, we are headed to the rue du Bac in the 6th arrondisement and a visit to Deyrolle.

Somewhat hard to pin down, Deyrolle can best be described as a curio cabinet full beasts large and small that have been carefully and exquisitely (if indeed, that is a word one could use in this case) preserved through the process of taxidermy and have been put on display in a beautiful 19th hôtel particulier.  It is odd to see these incredible animals found in the wild, quite at home surrounded by backdrop of gold ormolu, softly colored walls and chevron patterned hardwood floors. But I do believe that is exactly what makes a visit here special--it becomes other worldly. (Since I enjoy things like that, that might explain my dreams!) In addition to elephants and tigers or smaller, safer creatures like butterflies and birds--anyone holding a ticket to a berth on Noah's Ark is here as well.
In February of 2008, this beautiful menagerie suffered a fire that thankfully did not destroy as much as originally thought and brought to light just how revered this most curious of establishments is amongst Parisians.  The owner, Prince Louis-Albert de Broglie, who first visited Deyrolle when he was five and bought it in 2001, has painstakingly nursed it back to its original, if not better self.   Founded in 1831, its contents remain, for the most part, in much the same state as one would imagine back then.  Fossils, geodes, bugs and stuffed animals really don't change all that much.  His commitment to making this shop a Parisian 'phoenix' was successful and the doors are once again open to the public.    

Aside from the lingering 'eau de biology lab' scent that wafts through the air, this is really a most interesting place to visit.  If you are in Paris with kids who have had absolutely enough of Renaissance art or haute couture,  bring them here for an an hour or so to even out the score. There's a gift shop on the first floor that those of you a bit squeamish about having to come face to face with stuffed snakes can spend some time in.   

Additional information:  Deyrolle

                                              46 rue du Bac

                                              Métro: Rue du Bac

Photo credit:  Deyrolle

  

Arrondissements: The Lay of the Land

I thought we could make our way through the alphabet of Paris (an easy way to for me to come up with posts) taking a cue from the letter of the day and seeing where it might lead.  With that in mind,  I could not help but start us off with the lay of the land.  This way, if one of you should go astray--letting go of your buddy's hand, which you know you should never do,  you will at least have some idea of where you might be and how to get home!!

The letter A today is all about arrondissements or roughly translated, 'municipal boroughs'. The city of Paris is divided into twenty of these little villages, each with their own town hall (hôtel de ville) and mayor.  Mini-municipalities you might say.  Distinctly different in every possible way, they provide both resident and tourist with a unique and diverse interpretation of how life should be lived. 

These arrondissements spiral out from the very center of the the city, curling around itself similar to the inside of shell, with the Seine dividing the city into the Right and Left banks.   As a tourist, your visit will most likely be confined to the inner most arrondissements--say one through nine. It is here that the majority of monuments, museums and history can be found.   That's not to say, however,  that what lies beyond this point isn't worth a visit.  In recent years,  with real estate prices skyrocketing,  Parisians have made the trek into new territory, specifically the outer spiral of the shell,  where once decaying neighborhoods and buildings are being rejuvenated into pockets of boho chic.  

In my books, the third thru six offer the most fun and adventure for those not familiar with the city.  It is in this area that you will find all that you have read about in tour guides while planning a trip.  Expect much of it to be crowded, crazy, full of traffic and noisy.  Certainly, you will feel as though you are right in the thick of things--probably exactly where you want to be. You can walk everywhere or hop on the metro and cover more ground than you probably thought possible.  This city, for all its grandeur and larger than life status is really quite small.  To cover it by foot isn't as crazy as you think. 

I have found some interactive maps of the city that allow you to click on the arrondisement and be taken on a journey of what monuments you will find there and a little about each section's distinct personality.  There is no excuse for any of you getting lost!!

Additional information:  Discover France, Go Europe, Paris by Numbers

Photo credit:  intransit.com

 

My Genie In Paris

Planning a trip to Paris?  There are a million ways to go about the task of getting oneself there and then figuring out what one needs to do and see.  The fact that every single street offers some new and interesting shop or restaurant doesn't help.  It can be overwhelming and disappointing often times if you don't have a least some idea of where to go.  A friend of mine has taken it upon himself to make sure that vacation disasters to the City of Lights can be avoided.  

My Genie in Paris, a company started by a young and very personable French entrepreneur, takes all the guesswork out of planning your trip to Paris.  From start to finish, Stephane and his staff can guide you to hotels and apartment rentals that fit all budgets and will put together an itinerary for individuals, groups or families based on where your interests lie.  A preliminary online survey will get the ball rolling and on arrival in Paris, a concierge will meet you at your hotel with all the information and tickets you might need.  In addition, this team of experts knows the city inside and out and can give you personalized tips from where the best breakfast in Paris is (you've got to try it) to nightlife that tourists would easily miss out on.  

They have taken great pains to gather together some of the most interesting "off the beaten" track activities which you can take advantage of.  Spend a morning learning the ins and outs of a true Parisian boulangerie followed by an afternoon creating your very own perfume.  That's just the beginning of what's available to you.  This team of born and bred Parisians left no stone unturned  searching for the best experience possible while visiting Paris. 

Taking all the guesswork and stress out of planning a trip, My Genie in Paris is really the way to go for a unique and successful visit to the City of Lights.

Additional information:  My Genie In Paris  

Photo credit:  ancama 99(toni)@flickr

Travels to Spain: Paradors

A nomad I will remain for life, in love with distant and uncharted places.

-Isabelle Eberhardt-

I started traveling, REALLY traveling late, or what I consider late in my life.  My daughters ranged in age from 11 to 8 when we started taking them to Europe.  Prior to that, we were on a first name basis with Minnie and Mickey and felt it was time to spread our wings.  London was a first overseas destination; nice but not my favorite place.  The next year, my hubby wanted a beach vacation.  So, leave it to us, we came up with one--Marbella, Spain.  He would tell you he was thinking along the lines of the west coast of Florida.   Hard to argue with this selection; it was on the Mediterranean, the Rock of Gibraltar made itself known in the distance and the sun poked it's head out every day.  It's been our most memorable trip to date. 

So many things stand out for me but I would have to say, hands down, our visit and overnight stay at the Alhambra in Granada was the highlight.  Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada mountains, this compound of Islamic inspired buildings dates back to the 9th century built initially as a military fortress and four centuries later becoming the royal residence of Mohammed ben Al-Hamar.  It's history is rich in peace and conflict that is too complicated to go into here. Currently, it is one of Spain's most popular tourist attractions and worth the trip!

 

We were fortunate enough to stay on the grounds of the Alhambra at Hotel San Francisco, a fifteenth century convent that has been transformed into a small four star hotel.  Referred to as a Parador, it is one of many  historically significant buildings (convents, castles, palaces and monasteries) throughout Spain that have been transformed to accommodate guests in some spectacular settings.  Once the last tourist was ushered off the grounds at the end of the day, we were able to roam about certain parts of the grounds as if we alone lived there.  It was amazing.  To watch the sunset and have millions of stars appear as we stood at the highest point in the watch tower will never be equaled for me.  

I have found tours through the Smithsonian that initiated this whole post idea.  Travel to Spain this fall for two weeks as you make your way through this beautiful country, staying in beautiful Paradors at each stop.  I can't help but think you would have an experience of a lifetime.  

Additional information:  andalucia-travelguide,  Smithsonian Journeys, Paradors, 

                                  

Photo credits:  Personal collection, GreatBuildings.com

Paris Before We Met

I am in the process of weeding things from my surroundings as our family gets ready to pack up the last 12 years of our life and come July split off in different directions as we go through a monumental shift in how and where we live our lives.  As a result, I have been going through things and of course, get all caught up and side-tracked in old photographs, magazines, the dilemmas of, "Do I keep this Mother's Day card from 1987 and where do I pack it if I do?"  All things that take me totally off track from what I am supposed to be doing--downsizing!

I am a lover of many things but antiques are right up there for me.  During a phase when I had a small business, I was constantly at auctions, digging around for that great find (many of which I kept for myself......that's allowed).  Often times, I would buy something that ended up being auctioned off along with a box full of junk which I would then get to search through and hopefully find the elusive pot of gold.  Here are two items that although will not get me millions at Sotheby's, make me happy just the same.  

This is Opéra Garnier as it looked at the turn of the 20th century.  This building is the piece de resistance in Baron Haussman's urban planning crusade of Paris.  Designed by Charles Garnier, a young, unknown architect at the time, Mr. Garnier beat out over 170 of his contemporaries in winning the right to design this opulent, over the top structure.  It is magnificent and deserves a trip inside should you be in Paris--a tour would be nice, but to experience a performance here is a different memory to take home with you altogether.  

Here's a photograph of the Champs Elysées, looking towards the Arc de Triomphe from the Place de la Concord--that is quite a mouthful.  Check out the horse in the center.  How crazy is that.  I can just hear Maurice Chevailier singing "Thank Heaven for Little Girls" as he strolled down this very same boulevard in the movie Gigi.

Photo Credit:  Personal Collection