Monday, November 24, 2008

Mystery, Masks and Music at Musée d'Orsay

Today the letter M is going to work its 'magic' while we make our way through the Musée d'Orsay.  Several exhibits that are happening as we speak are worth a trip to my favorite museum in the city.  Mystery, Masks and Music.  Let's get moving!

Manet's Portrait of Irma Brunner

Mystery and Glitter is the first exhibit we're going to that takes a look into the world of Pastels.  These pigmented powders, shaped into sticks held together by chalky water and a binder go back as far as being mentioned by Leonardo da Vinci in 1495.  In the late 18th century, pastels became popular among portraitists who were able to manipulate this medium allowing them to produce incredible detail, texture and skin tone that mystified and delighted the aristocrats who were being 'pasteled'.   Degas and Manet took this art form to great heights: Degas through his revelation of dancers in unexpected lighting and perspective and Manet in his beautiful portraits.  These works will captivate you leaving you to wonder how one could work with a substance so powdery and create such amazing detail.  The lighting captured by Degas will have you believing the shadows in his works are coming from lighting the museum has created.   

Degas' Dancers

Masks, whether for protection, performance or ceremony, have played a role in revealing mans stories and history forever.  Think tribal masks from Africa or pre-Columbian masks used for Christian rituals. Or perhaps carnival masks in Venice or those worn to masked balls held throughout Paris.  When you think about it, all cultures can be traced to having used some form of masks.  Looked at from that point of view, they are objects which deal with identity--or the temporary loss of it either ritually or spiritually.  

The Musée d'Orsay has brought together a collection spanning the globe to illustrate just how universal this art form is.  Through photography, graphics, bronze castings and stone, the mask is exposed in forms grotesque, decorative and as portraiture.  Indeed, an interesting study on how history has provided man with ways to lose, or perhaps, find him/herself.
Last, but certainly not least, between now and June of 2009, the museum is hosting lunch time concerts, free to the public, that juxtapose one art form in the setting of another. Nineteen different concerts have been planned, bringing in both amateurs and professionals whose repertoires range from Romantic music to French Chansons.  If that isn't something you can make happen, perhaps you can get to the museum this Tuesday evening as the Grand Hall will be the setting for a performance by the Orchestre national de France.  I have not been, but can only imagine how incredible an experience that will be.  So hope you are in Paris right now to take advantage of that!

Additional information:  Musée d'Orsay 
                                            Metro:  Solférino, Assemblée Nationale
                                            Closed Mondays
                                            Pastels in the Musée and Masks, now thru Feb. 1, 2009

Photo credit:  Musée d'Orsay, natalamc@flickr

Friday, November 21, 2008

Ladurée

I know that if you are reading this blog because you love Paris, then you surely have come across information far more in depth to anything I can write about Ladurée here.  And you have probably come across countless blog posts, articles, etc. that allude to the fact a visit to Paris is incomplete without a visit to Ladurée.  I would have to concur.  For me and many others, it is the complete sensorial definition of 'l'Art de Vivre' that the French have mastered so well.  Sight, sound, taste, aroma are woven together in such way that you are carried off to another time and place--one that no longer exists in our everyday world.  The company has masterfully created a sense of wanting to 'be' Ladurée.  


Recently, in celebration of their ten year anniversary of their location on the Champs Elysée, Ladurée ventured into the future with the addition of Ladurée Le Bar, a completely different way to experience the world of petite fours and macarons.  Located behind the salon de thé,  Laudurée Le Bar looks more like a lounge you might find on Starship Enterprise:  weblike barstools and an illuminated ship shaped bar feel more space age than belle époque.  If you're going to do something that feels entirely different from what already exists, this would be it.  


What does remain the same is their connection to the macaron flavors they've created for their patisseries.  Drinks like Pistache (my flavor choice), a melange of Grey Goose pear vodka, ginger liqueur and pistachio syrup is served up with a pale green pistachio macaron on the side.  Perfect.  Rose, Citron, Café and Cassis/Violette get the nod as well.  You can order non-alchohalic drinks, including their Thés Ladurée, all delicious.   
There is a menu available as well, serving breakfast and interesting light meals throughout the day.  Inventive and elegant would be a way  to describe them--read:  it will not be cheap but it will be memorable.  Whether it's the salon du thé that pulls you in or Le Bar, Ladurée, one way or the other is not to be missed. 

Additional information:  Ladurée
                                            Ladurée Le Bar
                                            75 avenue de Champs Élysée or 13 rue Lincoln 
                                            Métro:  George V

Photo credit:  Ladurée, L'Express Styles

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Champs Élysées Gets Ready For Christmas

Eric Kayser

Fast food does exist in Paris;  they love their 'McDo' but hate to admit it.  And you'll see people taking their lunch break in the Tuileries or Luxembourg Gardens eating emporter (to go) sandwiches.  The French version of fast food is a far cry from McDonald's--it's actually very good.  If you are on the run, what with all the things one must do here in a short period of time, I suggest you head to any one of Eric Kayser boulangeries sprinkled about the city for yumminess that gets you in and out in a hurry.  
  
I was introduced to these boulangeries by a Parisian friend who claims they serve the best breakfasts in Paris.  A bit skeptical since 'breakfast' here does not mean what those of you in the states are use to.  Mini shots of espresso and a quick croissant is usually what you will find.  I'm fine with just the croissant--it's the endless cup of coffee that my body needs to get me going in the morning that's missing.  You won't find an endless cup anywhere in Paris, but you can get a wonderful continental breakfast with orange juice, coffee and a basket of baked goodies here.  My friend knows what he's talking about.  If you are traveling with young children as I have done, meals can be the toughest part of a trip to a foreign country.  At least here, you can ply them with a great breakfast and might not get too many complaints.  


I do believe you'd be safe bringing them here for lunch as well.  They serve delicious sandwiches and savory tarts that people will stand in line outside the door for.  If tables are hard to come by at lunch time, why don't you treat yourself to dining al fresco with your family or whoever you're traveling with.  Get your meal to go (emporter) and create an impromptu picnic in the Tuileries.  Speaking from experience, lunch in the gardens is pretty darn magnificent.  

Additional information:  Maison-Kayser
                                             Locations throughout Paris(see website)

Photo credit:  Maison-Kayser, mo foo@flickr, SevillaSD@flickr

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Just Because....


Two of the world's most famous Disney characters, Mickey and Minnie, celebrated their 80th anniversary this past week, with the news of that event in the states for some reason remaining under the radar.  What with the presidential election and our economic crisis screaming at us 24/7,  it may have gotten lost but I think celebrating their birthday would have been most welcome on some of these darker days. Oddly enough, during Fashion week in Paris last month, designers showing their latest spring/summer lines took time out to create one-of-a-kind outfits in honor of the lovely Miss Minnie that were auctioned off at Christie's in Paris with proceeds going to Maison de Solenn, an organization helping young adults suffering from bulimia, anorexia, depression and other disorders. Kind of odd that it was such a big deal in France and not in the states. Hmm.  

Here are my favorites:



Minnie Lagerfeld
My favorite by far.  She and I have exactly the same 'goofy' legs. 

Photo credit:  Jacques Brinon